Label-stitching machine



E. B. ALLEN AND A. R. WOOD.

LABEL 81110111116 111110111115.

APPLICATION FILED MAH. 29. |915. 1,319,450. 1111111111111 001. 21,1919.

TSHEETS-SHEET l.

wim/5885s: e h IN1/Enron j* 1 0 1 mi( 4 7 W #gew/QM.

` ago/mfr E. B. ALLEN AND A. R. WOUD.

LABEL SITCHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 29 |915.

Patented Oct. 21,1919.

I SHEETS-SHEET 2.

IN VEN TUI? TORNEY WIM/ESSE E. B. ALLEN AND A. R. WOOD.

LABEL STITCHING MACHINE.

APFHCATION FILED MAR. 29. 1915.

1 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

Q1 b WAM..

TTURIVEY E. B. ALLEN AND A. R. WOOD.

LABEL STITCHNG MACHINE.

APFLICATIUH EILED MMI. 29. |915- Patented Oct. 21,1919.

' Q- i o 5 lwmron MM www/Vm Q f0.7 @im ATTORNEY E. B. ALLEN AND A. H.WOOD.

LABEL SIITCHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 29. |915.

Patented Oct. 2l, 1919.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

@M /e 9220, ATTORNEY E. B. ALLEN AND A. R. WOOD.

LABEL STITCHING MACHINE.

E. B. ALLEN AND A. R. WOOD.

LABEL SIITCHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 29. |915.

1,319,450. Patented 0er. 21,1919.

I SHEETS-SHEET 1.

f UNTTED sTATEs PATENT OFFICE.

EDWARD B. ALLEN AND ALFRED R. WOOD, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT,ASSIGNOBS T0 THE SINGER MANUFACTURING C'OMIPANY, A CORPORATION 0F NEWJERSEY.

LABEL-STITCHING MACHINE.

Application led March 29, 1915.

T o all whom 'it may concern:

Be it known that we, EDWARD B. ALLEN and ALFRED R. VVooD, citizens ofthe United States, residing at Bridgeport, in the county of Fairfieldand State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Label-Stitching Machines, of which the following is aspecification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawshisinvention has for its primary object to provide means for effectivelyand securely fastening to a body fabric a label or section of tape withits ends stitched upon the fabric and its intermediate portiondisconnected therefrom so as to form a strap or hanger which shall beadapted not only to bear the name or trademark of the manufacturer ofthe garment but to afford means for hanging up the garment when not inuse. It has jogging needle and feeding mechanism comprising a travelingwork-clamp, such mechanisms being controlled in 'their periods of actionby a stop-motion. The stop-motion preferably includes fast and loosepulley- Wheels upon the main-shaft of the machine and adapted to bealternately embraced by a continuously running belt from the source y ofpower.

The work-clamp or holder preferably sustains a tape-guiding channeldirected between its work-engaging elements and a tape reel from whichthe label-tape is led through said guide within the work-clamp in whichit is superposed upon a garment or body fabric 'to which a sectionthereof is to be secured. A normally retracted shearcutter for severinglabel-sections from the tape is adapted to advance and sever the tapecrosswlse of the guide-channel and in- Specication of Letters Patent.

Patented Oct. 21, 1919.

serial No. 17,596. i

termediate the work-clamping elements subsequent to the stitching of thefirst end of the label and prior to the final stitching operation of thecycle.`

The loose belt-driven pulley-wheel has an operative connection with andimparts reciprocatory movements to an actuatin pawl normally engaging aratchet whee fixed upon a rotary cam-shaft carrying a plurality ofcam-wheels, these several rotary parts constituting a cam-member whichcontrols the timing of action of various parts of the mechanism. Thecam-member has operative connections with the"work-clamp, the stopmotionand the tape-cutter to effect successively the closing of thework-clamp, the actuation of the stitch-forming and feeding mechanismsfor the production of two groups of fastening stitches with anintermediate period in which the clamp is opened to permit the manualshift of the work having one end of the tape stitched thereto, thesevering of the tape preparatory to the production of the final group offastening stitches, and the reclosing of the clamp followed by the finalstitching operation.

In the initial position of the parts, the extremity of the unseveredtape lies within the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism,and the body fabric having been introduced, the initial group offastening stitches is applied thereto without movement of the tapeotherwise than in the normal feeding action. After the tape-severingaction, and before the clamp is reclosed upon the work, the cut end ofthe supply ta e is retracted from the range of action o thestitch-forming mechanism by means actuated by said cam member, and thefinal stitching operation is thereafter effected, at the completion `ofwhich suitable tape-feeding means Within the channel is actuated toadvance the cut end of the supply tape within the range of action of thestitch-forming mechanism for the next tape-fastening operation. In orderto insure the requisite interval between the two stages of the stitchingoperation in which the initial and final groups of stitches respectivelyare applied to the label, automatically acting means are provided tointerrupt the action of the several trains of mechanism, and manually0perated means are provided for setting them again in operation afterthe w'ork has been shifted to draw olf the requisite length of tape forthe label partially'stitched the fabric by the previous stitchingoperation.

Provision is preferably made whereby the needle is given lateral joggingmovements for production of a line of zigzag stitches covering the endof the label succeeded by a parallel line of straightaway stitchesslightly spaced therefrom and extending across the ,label back from itsedge. To this end, means are provided for not only interrupting thejogging movements of the needle alternately in opposite lateralpositions so as to bring the line of straightaway stitches. upon theappropriate side of the zigzag stitches and back from the respective cutend of the. label, but for imparting to the needl a slightly increasedlateral throw beyond the adjacent normal zigzag stitching position. Themachine is preferably provided with a needlethread cutting and nippingdevice traveling with the work-clamp and actuated at the completion ofeach group of fastening stitches by a connection,.with the stop-motion;While provision is made for severing the lower or shuttle-thread by aknife disposed beneath the work-holder and actuated by a connection withthe interruptedly driven cam-member.

The invention will be understood by reference to the accompanyingdrawings, in which Figure 1 is a front sidel elevation, with the framepartly in section, representing a sewing machine embodying the presentimprovements, and Fig. 2 is a plan of the same. Fig. 2a is a detail viewof the stopping cam and the upper portion of the coperating plunger-bar.Fig. 3 is a rear side elevation of the machine, and Fig. 4 is a bottomplan thereof. Fig. 5 is a plan of the forward portion of the bed-plateof the machine and certain of the parts, including the work-clamp,carried thereby, and Fig. 6 is a front end elevation of the machine withcertain parts, including the bracket-arm, in transverse section. Fig. 7is a bottom plan, Fig. 8 a side elevation, and Fig. 9 a longitudinalsectional elevation of the tape-guide and the feeding device, and Fig.10 a view of the delivery end of the tape-guide. Fig. 11 is aperspective view of the tape-feeding element and its carrier. Fig. 12 isa perspective view of a, portion of the needle-frame controlling device.Fig. 13 is a pers ective view of the cam-shaft .ratchet-W eel with aportion of its operating means. Fig. 14 is a perspective view of 'theunder face of the upper work-clamping member and needle-thread cuttingdevice with portions of their operating means. Fig. 15 is a perspectiveview of the under side of the workplate and the lower-thread cutting andpulloi device sustained thereby. Fig. 16 is a perspective view of thetape-cutting device and its actuating means, and Fig. 17 a similar viewof the tape-cutting shears detached from their actuating means. Fig. 18is a perspective view of a portion of the needlethread cutter actuatingmechanism. Fig. 19 is a perspective view of a portion of thetape-feeding and work-clamp operating mechanisms. Figs. 20, 21 and 22are perspective views of parts of the tape-feeding mechanism, and Fig.23 is an enlarged sectional detail view representing another part ofsaid mechanism. Fig. 24 is a sectional elevation of the tape-reel. Fig.25 is a plan view 0f a piece of fabric having a section of tape orlabel-strip attached by means of the mechanism of the presentimprovement.

In general constructive features, the machine represented in theaccompanying drawings is similar to that of the United States PatentsNo. 806,231, of December 5, 1905 and No. 885,310, of April 21, 1908, andis constructed with a frame comprising the bed-plate 1 from which risesthe hollow standard 2 with lateral tubular arm 3 terminating in the head4.

As herein represented, the stitch-forming mechanism comprises theeye-pointed needle 5 carried by the needle-bar 6 mounted in the usualhorizontally swinging frame 7 and deriving its vertical reciprocatingmovements from a link connection 8 with a crank on the segmental disk 9at the forward end of the main-shaft 10 which carries upon its rearwardend the fast and loose grooved pulleys 11 and 12 adapted to be embracedalternately by a continuously running driving belt b from the source ofpower. The shaft 10 is formed with an actuating crank 13 connected by apitman 14 and suitable connections beneath the bed-plate with theshuttle-actuating rock-shaft 15 having the driver 16 for impartingoperative movements to the oscillating shuttle 17 mounted in theshuttle-race 18.

The main-shaft carries also an eccentric 19 embraced by the strap 20 ofa Pitmanrod 21 connected beneath the bed-plate with the lateral arm 22of a rocker having a depending ar-m 23 carrying a ball-stud 24. Theball-stud 24 is embraced by a strap at one end of the pitman 25 whoseopposite end is secured adjustably by means of the screw '26 to thesegmentally grooved arm 27 of the pawl-carrying plate 28 apertured toembrace the 4hub portion 29 of the feed ratchet-wheel 30 (Figs. 3 and 4)which is secured by means of the fastening screw 31 and disk 32 upon thelower end of the vertical feed-Wheel shaft 33. Upon the lateralextension 28 of the plaite 28 is mounted by means of the stud-pin 34 thefeed-paw] 35 normally pressed in engagement with the peripheral teeth ofthe ratchet-wheel by means of the spring 36. Secured by means of thescrew 37 to the depending Bange 1 of the bed-fplate is a plate 38 uponwhich is pivotally mounted *by means of the screwstud 39 the holdingpawl 40 pressed by means of spring 41 into operative engagement with theratchet-Wheel 30.

Mounted upon the shaft 33 above the ratchet-wheel 30 is the feed-wheel42 having Aa depending pin 43 whose reduced lower portion enters anaperture 44 of the ratchetwheel whereby they are caused to performstep-fby-step rotary movements in unison. The feed-wheel 42 is providedin its upper face with a feed cam-groove 45 entered by the roller-stud46 upon one arm 47 of a bellcrank fulcrumed at 48 and provided with asecond segmental arm 49 to which is adjustably connected 011e end of thelink 50 whose other end is connected by means of the screw-stud 51 withthe slide-block 52 moving in the slideway 53 of the bed-plate 1.

Secured by lmeans of screws 54 within a transverse seat formed in thetop of the bed-pirate is a cross-plate 55 provided with a longitudinallyextending slideway 56 with- -in which Jis fitted the clamp slide-plate57 which is confined within its slideway by means of the 58. Theslidepliate 57 is formed in its lower side with a recess 57 entered 'bya projection 52 of the slide-block 52 through which connection itderives its traveling movements from the cam-wheel 42. Upon the clampslide-plate is secured the laterally e'xtendlng base-plate 59fupon whichis secured the foot 60 of the overhanging bracket 61 which supports thepost 62.

Pivotally mounted upon the bracket 61 by means of the pin 63 are thedepending lugs 64 of the upper clamping arm 65 upon the downwardlyoffset and forked forward portion of which is mounted by means of Ythescrews 66 the substantially U-shfaped clampcheck 67 having the serratedlower operative face 67 and formed with a longitudinal recess 67embracing the needle-path and disposed in register with theneedle-aperture 68 of the stationary needle-throat 69 which is sustainedby the cross-plate 55 and aii'ords a support upon which the work isgripped by the traveling clamp-check. The post 62 -is surrounded bytheusual pressure-spring 7 0 interposed between the nut 62 and the top ofthe clamping arm 65 for normally pressin the clamp-check upon the work,and suc clamping arm is provided with the backwardly -proJectingextension 71 by means of which the clamping arm maybe 'rocked upon itsulcrum-pin 63 for release of the work,

The main-shaft 10 has secured thereon the bevel pinion 72 meshing withthe larger fbevel wheel 73 journaled upon the fixed screw-stud 74 andprovided in its hub portion with the cam-groove 75 entered by theroller-stud 76 upon one arm 77 of a rocker having its hub portion 78journaled upon the stud-screw 79 and provided with a second arm 8O uponwhich is secured the angular plate 81 carrying the stud-pin 82. Therocker 77, 80, derives through lts described connections with themain-shaft rocking movements of one-half the frequency of the rotationsof said shaft,` which are communicated to the stud-pin 82.

The stud-pin 82 is normally closely embraced b the transverse middleportion of an angu ar slot 83 having oppositely extending clearanceportions on opposite sides thereof, said slot being formed centrally ofthe enliarged end portion or head 84 of a link-bar 85 having securedthereto by means of screws 87 an adjustable section 86 of the bar 85which is pivotally connected by means of the stud-screw 88 with an arm 7of the needle-frame 7 which is pivoted u n the center-screws 89sustained within t e head 4 of the bracket-arm.

The link-bar 85 carries intermediate its ends the roller-stud 90 whichenters a longitudinal slot 91 in the outer end of the swinging lever 92whose apertured opposite end is tulcrumed upon the stud-screw 93 tappedinto the top of the 'bracket-arm 3. The lever 92 carries the screw-stud94 embraced `by one end of a link 95 whose apertured other `end ispivotally connected by means of the ball-stud 96 with the upper end ofthe rocklever 97 which is fulcrumed by means of the pin 98 upon lateralears 99 upon the arm 3.

The upper arm of the lever 97 is provided with a socket to receive thespring 100 interposed between the same and the curb 3 of the arm 3,whereby the nose 97 at the lower end of the rock-lever is maintainedyieldingly in engagement with the plural-stepped cam-disk 102 whose hubis secured upon the feed-wheel shaft 33 by means of the setscrew 103.The lower arma of the rock-lever 97 carries a stop-screw 104 whoseoperative end is adapted to contact with the seat formed therefor uponthe arm 3 to determine one of the extreme positions of the rock-lever.

The periphery of the cam-disk 102 is stepped (as represented in dottedlines in IFig. 2) to form diametrically opposite longer lntermediateconcentric portions 102 between which are the shorter outer and innerconcentric portions 102 and 102'". When the nose of the rock-lever 97engages the concentric portions 102 of the cam-disk the lever 92 ismaintained in intermediate position wherein its stud and slot connectionwith the link-bar 85 causes the head of the latter to be so positionedthat the operative shoulders of the slot 83 embrace between them thestud-pin 82 as represented in Fig. 2, whereby the llnk-bar receivesendwise reciprocating movements which are transmitted through theneedle-frame to the needle-bar whose lateral jogging movements causezigzag stitching to be produced in conjunction with the normal feed ofthe work.

When the nose of the rock-lever 97 rides up the intermediate shoulderupon the outer cam portion 102', the rock-lever is tilted upon itsfulcrum 98 and through the link connection 95 the lever 92 is shiftedtoward the front of the machine. The lever 92 carries laterally with itthe link-bar 85 so as to bring the lateral notch 105 in the head 84 intoengagement with the stop-pin 106 tapped into the head of the fulcrum-pin79. The encounter of the inner cam portion 102'" by the rock-lever 97causes the latter t0 act through its sprin 100 to draw the lever 92backwardly an thereby shift the link-bar 85 into its rearward positionwherein the lateral notch 107 is brought into engagement with the fixedstop-pin 108 sustained by a bracket-piece 109 of the curb 3. The notches105 and 107 have upon opposite sides thereof the inclined cam edges 105and 107 to produce Haring mouths for initial engagement of therespective stop-pins by Whlch the link-bar 85 1s caused by the one to bemoved forwardly and by the other to be moved backwardly slightly beyondnormal extreme jogging positions, whereby the needle when not receivingjoggin movements is positioned sli htly beyon and at one side or theother of the range of its jogging movements. As will be observed byreference to Fig. 2 the enlargements or clearance portions at the endsof the slot 83 and upon opposite sides of its operative walls serve toreceive the studpin 82 in the extreme opposite positions of the link-bar85 and to permit such stud-pin to move idly therein without effectiveenengagement with the link-bar which is maintained stationary by itsengagement with either of the pins 106 or 108.

The stop-motion of the present machine is of well known construction,comprising the tilting lever 110 mounted upon the fulcrum-screws 111sustained by the machine frame and provided with an arm 112 carrying thebelt-shipping fork 113. The lever 110 has journaled therein the endwisemovable plunger-bar 114 adapted for engagement with the notchedperiphery of the stopping cam 115 in engagement with which it is pressedendwise by means of the spring 116, being thrust laterally `intooperative relation with said cam by means of the spring 117 interposedbetween the bracket-arm standard 2 and the lever 110.

The lever 110 has a forwardly extending arm 118 pivotally connected bymeans of the screw-pin 119 with the apertured upper end of the pull rod120 extending downwardly through the bed-plate and laterally notched toreceive the rearwardly extending arm 121 of a spring-pressed latch-leverfulcrumed beneath the bed-plate at 122 and provided with a forwardlyextending arm 123 carrying the adjustable plate 124 with the lateralprojection 125. The projection 125 is maintained normally in the path ofmovement of the tripping points 126 secured upon the feedwheel atdiametrically opposite points and adapted for engagement wlth thelatch-lever for release of the pull-rod 120 when the stoplever 110 is inretracted or running position to permit it to assume stopping positlonwith the plunger-bar 114 in operative relation with the cam 115.

The needle-thread cutting and nipping device is similar in generalconstructlon to that of the said Patent No. 885,310. It comprises acutting and nipping blade 127, preferably formed of two thin overlappingplates, secured by a fastening screw 128 upon the lower end of a rockingpin 129 journaled in a bearing boss 130 of the workclamping foot orcheck 67 and provided at its upper end with the crank-arm 131. The blade127 works within a slot 132 parallel with the work-engaging face of thefoot and provided with coperating thread-cutting and nipping shoulders.

The crank-arm 131 has pivotally attached thereto by means of thescrew-pin 133 (Fig. 14) the apertured forward end of a bent rod 134passing through an aperture in and guided by the bracket-piece 135sustained by the clamping arm 65. The rod 134 is normally retracted tothrow the blade 127 into operative or nipping and cutting position bymeans of the spring 136 having one end attached to the bracket-piece 135and the other to the collar 137 upon said rod. The top of the rod 134 isprovided at its rearward end with a notch 134 adapted to be entered bythe spring-pressed latch 138 pivoted by means of the screw-pin 139within a lateral fork 140 of the clamping arm extension 71.

Slidingly mounted upon a stud-pin 141 is a sliding sleeve 142 having alateral wing 143 affording a shoulder lying normally in the path ofmovement of two diameterically opposite tappet-pins 144 upon a disk 145fixed upon and adapted to rotate with the feed-wheel shaft 33. The wing143 is provided with a. forward extension 143 also affording an abruptshoulder adapted for engagement with the extremity of the rod 134. Thesleeve 143 is yieldingly maintained in retracted position adjacent thebracket-arm standard 2 by means of a spring 146 attached at one end to astud 147 upon the standard and at the opposite end to a stud 148 uponthe sleeve.

In the longitudinal travel of the workclamp relatlvely to the needle inthe production of stitches, it is requisite that the blade 127 beretracted from thread-nipping posiwith a transverse socket 158.

tion promptly in order to provide for the normal action of thethread-cutter at the completion of a seam of minimum length.

Instead, therefore, of providing a fixed 5 abutment for engagement withthe end of the cutter-actuating rod 134 for the gradual retraction ofthe blade under the traveling movement of the work-clamp, the sleeve 142is caused by engagement with one of the tappet-pins 144to perform arapid advance t0 meet the rod 134 and thrust the same forwardly inopposition to the travel of its carrying work-clamp, thereby effectingthe prompt retraction of the cutter in readiness for a nipping andcutting action in which position it is retained by the snapping of thelatch 138 into the notch 134 of the rod 134.

The latch 138 has projecting from one side thereof the bent pin 149which enters an eye 150 in the lower end of a wire 151 Whose oppositeend is formed with an eye through which passes the fastening screw 152which is tapped into the tension release 25 rock-lever 153 mounted upona fixed fulcrum 154. The rearwardly and downwardly extending arm of thelever 153 nor` mally7 rests within the range of movement of a crank-arm155 whose hub is fixed upon the forward end of a rock-shaft 156 mountedin a. bearing bracket 157 upon the bracketarm standard 2 and havingfixed upon its rearward end the hub of a laterally and rearwardlyextending crank-arm 158 formed The arm 158 is normally drawn down bymeans of a springl159 attached to the same at one end and at theopposite end to the stop-lever 110. The socket 158 has fitted within ita springpressed plunger-pin 160 adapted for engagement with a shoulderafforded by the notch 161 in the upper and rearward portion of a collar162 secured upon the plunger-bar 114.

p When the stop-lever 110 is rocked to throw the .driving belt upon thefast pulley and shift the plunger-bar out of the range of action of thestopping cam 115 the collar 162 is disengaged from the plunger-pin 161,but when the stol motion is tripped vthe rearward face of the collarfirst presses the plunger-pin backwardly, but in the depression of theplunge -bar 114 by the eccentric periphery of the stopping cam, the pin160 snaps outwardly above the shoulder of the notch 161, and thesubsequent rise of the bar 114 .within the stopping notch of the cam1-15,en ages the collar with the pin 161 and there y rocks the shaft 156and'with it the rock-lever 153. The rock-lever 153, by this movement,'draws upwardly the 'wire v151 and lifts the latch 138 to disengage itfrom the cutter-operating rod 134, whereupon the spring 136 acts tothrow such rod forwardly and cause the cutter 127 to sweep across theforward end portion of the clampcheck recess, and' to thereby engage thethread leading through the same to the needle and to successively nipand sever the same within the knife-blade slot of ,the clamp-check.

Within a suitable transverse slideway 163 in the bed-plate beneath thecross-plate 55 is mounted a slide-bar 164 to which is secured by screws165 the shank or stem 166 of an L-shaped spring-blade whose laterallyand upwardly oii'set portion 167 is provided at its extremity with aknife edge adapted to contact yieldingly with the bottom of theneedle-throat 69, the edge of the needle-hole 68 farthest from theknifeedge coperates with lthe latter in shearing off the lower threadclose to the material. This action is insured by the spring-plate 168secured to the under side of the plate 55 and receiving between itsouter end and the throat-plate the operative edge of the thread-cuttingknife.

The plate 55 is formed with an extension 55 upon which is fulcrumed bymeans of the stud-screw 169 one end of the pull-off lever 170 whoseopposite end is formed with the curved and upwardly offset pull-offblade 171. Intermediate its ends the pulloif lever 170 is provided witha longitudinal slot 172 embracing the shank of a studscrew 173 tappedinto the slide-bar 164, whereby the movement of the slide-bar insevering the lower or shuttle-thread actuates the blade 170 for initialengagement 10| with the thread to draw off a supply for the succeedingstitch preparatory to the severing` action.

he slide-bar 164 is provided at one end with a depending stud 174passing through 105 an aperture beneath the bed-plate and embraced bythe forked forward end 175 of a rock-lever 176 fulcrumed at 177 on thebottom of the bed-plate and having a rearwardly extending arm alsoprovided with a 110 fork 178 embracing a ball-stud 179 upon the lowerend of the depending bent lever 180 having its hub 181 loosely mountedupon the rock-shaft 156 and provided with a lateral arm 182 to whichmeans, hereinafter .11| to be described, are ap lied for operating thelower thread ull-o and cutting device.

Secured upon the bed-plate 1 adjacent the forward and rearward edges ofthe same are the bearing standards 183 and 184 pro- 120 vided withbearing bosses in which are journaled the opposite end portions of thecamshaft 185. This cam-shaft has secured thereon adjacent its rearwardend the mutilated ratchet-wheel 186 which is rovided 125 upon one facewith a projecting oss 187 upon which is fitted the apertured hub portion188 of.. the radially extending pawlcarrying plate 189, which 1sconfined thereon by means of the diek-l9l0 secured to the boss 130 187.The wheel 186 is formed with segmental series of ripheral ratchet-teeth186 with interme late concentric or dead portions 186, the ratchet-teethbeing normally engaged by the wedge-shaped extremity 191 of an actuatingpawl 192 pivotally mounted by means of the screw-stud 193 upon the plate189 and normally pressed upon the periphery of the ratchet-wheel by a sring 194.

t their upper extremities, the standards 183 and 184 are provided withapertured bosses to receive the cross-rod 154 upon the reduced rearwardend portion of which is mounted the holding pawl 195 which is pressed incontact with the periphery of the cam-wheel by means of the sprin 196.

The pawl-plate 189 carries a stu -screw 197 embraced by the aperturedforward end of a link 198 which is ivotallly connected by means of thescrew-pin 199 with the depending arm 200 of an elbow-lever mounted uponthe fulcrum-stud 201 upon the `bracketarm standard and provided with arearwardly extending arm 202 whose laterally offset end portion 203 isprovided With the ball-stud 204. The stud 204 is embraced by a strap 205at the lower end of a pitman 206 whose opposite end is provided with astrap 207 which embraces an actuating eccentric 208 formed upon orsecured to the loose belt-wheel 12.

By the means described, the acuating pawl 192 is reciprocatedcontinuously as long as the driving belt is u on the loose pulley andwhile the stichorming and feeding mechanisms remain idle, theratchet-wheel and cam-shaft deriving therefrom step-bystep rotarymovements until the pawl encounters a dead point'or gap between theratchet-teeth, when it continues to reciprocate idly or ineectively, theholding pawl cooperating therewith in preventing retrograde movement ofthe ratchet-wheel.

The ratchetwheel is provided upon its rearward face and near itsperiphery with the roller-studs 209 adapted for engagement with theforwardly offset extremity 210 of the forwardly extending arm 211 of arocklever mounted upon the fulcrum-stud 212 sustained by the standard184 and provided` with a rearwardly extendi arm 213 formed at itsrearward extremity with the fork 214 embracing the stud-pin 215projecting from the collar 216 adjustably secured upon the pull-rod 120by means of the set-screw 217. In the rotation of the ratchet-wheel, theencounter ofthe rocklever arm 211 by either ofthe studs 209 causes thetilting of the rock-lever and the drawing down of the pull-rod 120 forshifting the stop-lever to set the stitch-forming and feeding mechanismsin operation, the pull-rod being locked in such position by thelatch-lever arm 121 for subsequent automatic release by means of one ofthe tripping points 126 of the feed-wheel 42 or by the manually operabletrip ing lever 218.

The ratchet-wheel has our dead points 186 upon which the actuating pawl192 becomes ineffective and the ratchet-wheel ceases to move.Y In orderto advance the ratchet-Wheel to expose an adjacent series of teeth tosaid pawl, auxiliary actuating means are provided.

Loosel mounted upon the exterior of the bearing `li'oss 184 of thestandard 184 is the apertured hub 219 of a swinging arm 220 carrying atits outer end the pin 221 upon the reduced inner end of which is mountedthe auxiliary feed-pawl 222 pressed upon the periphery of theratchet-wheel by means of the spring 223. The arm 220 has projectingfrom its inner face adjacent its hub the studs 224 adapted forengagement respectively with the parts of the standard 184 above andbelow its bearing boss to limit the operative movements of said armwhich is normally maintained in its upper position by means of thespring 225 of which one end is connected with the apertured extremity ofthe pin 221 (Figs. 3 and 13) and the other end is at-` tached to a stud226 projecting from a bracket-plate 227 secured upon the bracketarmstandard.

The outer end of the arm 220 is connected with one end of a link 228whose opposite end is pivotal] attached to a swinging arm 229 fulcrumeupon the screw stud 230 tapped into the bracket-arm 3 and carrying uponits inner face the roller-stud 231 intermediate its ends. The stud 231is adapted for engagement with either of'the cam projections 232 uponthe lower face of the camdisk 102 rotating with the feed wheel, wherebythe arm 220 is automatically turned upon its fulcrum and the auxiliarypawl 222 moved in opposition to the spring 225 a distance exceeding thelength of one of the dead-points 186 for exposure of a new series ofratchet-teeth to the action of the actuating pawl 192. To initiate theoperation of the cam-shaft, the rearwardly extending portion of the pin221 may be drawn down by the hand lof the operator or by means of asuitable connection with a treadle below the Abase of the machine toimpart an operative movement to the auxiliary pawl 222.

Loosely mounted upon the bearing boss 184 is the hub 233 of a dependingarm 234 havin an inwardly extending iinger 235 with tie outer portion ofits lower face flattened at 235 and adapted for movement intermediatethe periphery of the ratchetwheel and the curved adjacent edge of theactuating pawl 192. The arm 234 is provided with a knob 236 Iby which itmay be shifted. The finger 235 is yieldingly embraced by pockets 237formed in a spring 238 secured upon the foot of the standard 184 andadapted to maintain the arm 234 in either of two positions wherein thefinger 235 is respectively retracted from the pawl 192 (as .representedin Fig. 3) or its engagement therewith for maintaming it disengaged fromthe ratchet-wheel. The object of this device is to enable the attendantto insure against the accidental starting of the mechanism by actuationof the auxiliary peawl 222 when the use of the machine is todiscontinued for any length of time, as at the end of a da s work.

The cam-sha t 185 has fixed thereon the cam-disk 239 having in oppositefaces respectively the tape-cutter actuatin cam- 4 grooves 240 and 241and the cam-disk 242 formed in its opposite faces with the camgrooves243 and 244 for actuating respectively the work-clamp operating meansand lower thread cutting device and the labeltape feeding device. Thehub of this camwheel has also adjustably applied to its inner face bymeans of the fastening screw 245 the circularly adjustable cam-disk 246having the projecting nose 247 for depressing the tape-guiding channel.

The cam-disk 239 has a eripheral groove in which is fitted the brae-band 248 comprising sections having hooked adjacent extremit1esconnected together b means of the spring 249 and opposite eyeextremities which are secured together by means of the stud-screw 250tapped into the lateral lugA 227 of the bracket-plate 227. The brakebandserves to prevent overthrow of the cam-shaft under the action of theactuating pawl 1.92 u on the ratchet-wheel 186.

Upon t e overhanging portion of the bracket 61 is secured a laterallyextending plate 251 (Figs. 1 and 23) to which is secured by means ofscrews 252 a lateral flange 253 of the tubular bearing sleeve 254 inwhich is fitted the tape-feed shaft 255 disposed parallel with thedirection of feed of the work-clamp. This shaft has journaled thereonnear its forward end a sleeve 256 formed with the lateral flange 257 andhaving rigidly fastened to its flattened lower side lby means of screws258 the plate 259 formed at one edge with the depending rib 260.

The ribbed edge of the plate 259 is ernbraced by the U-shapedtape-guidin chanlnel-member 261 having the upper lim thereof secured byscrews 262 upon the top of said plate. The plate 259 is formedintermediate its ends with a transverse aperture 263 and is provided atthe 'edges thereof with a trans- 4knurled head, so as to receive and,formed in said strap by means of which said screw is held againstendwise movement within its bearing afforded by the strap. The screw 268is fitted within a threaded aperture of a block 271 formed upon theslide-plate 264. By the means described, the channel-member 265 may beadj usted toward and from the channel-member 261 by turning theadjusting screw 268 by means of its guide the s of tapes of differentwidths. ecured upon the top of the flan 257 by the screw 272 is anarched plate 2 3 extending forwardly above the sleeve 256`and having inits downwardly inclined forward portion the transverse guide-slot w274through which the tape is led into the mouth of the guide-channel.Secured .adj ustably in position upon the plate 251 by means of screws275 is a bracket-plate 276 upon which is mounted by means of theclamp-srcew 277 a supporting late 278.

Upon the p ate 278 is pivotally secured by means of the screw 279 oneend of a lateral flange 280 of the stationary reel-disk 281, said flangebeing provided with a transverse slot 282 to receive the shank of ascrew 283 tapped into the plate 278 and having interposed between itshead and the liange a` washer 284, whereby the lateral position of thereel-disk may be adjusted relatively to the guide-aperture 274 of theplate 273.' The disk 281 is lprovided with a reel-pin 285 upon which ismounted the loose reel-disk 286 which is normally pressed upon the reelof tape t sustained by the pin 285 by means of a spring 287 surroundingsaid pin and interposed between the disk 286 and a nut 288 applied tothe threaded` outer portion of such pin.

The plate 259 has at one side a thickened ortion 289 formed in its lowerface with a ongitudinal channel closed upon the bottom by means of theplate 290. lWithin such channel is fitted the slide-bar 291 having atone end a cross-member 292 provided with a forked extremity in which ispivot'ed by means of the pin 293 a tongue 294 at the rearward end of thetape-feeding arm 295 formed with the serrated operative face 296. Uponthe cross member 292 is secured by screws 297 a Hat spring 298 bearingupon the arm 295 and adapted to press it upon the upper wall of thetape-channel afforded to which is attached one end of a spring 300 whoseopposite end is attached to a hooked lug 301 pro'eeting from the plate290, by means of w ich the slide-bar 291 and its attached feedingelement 295 are normally retracted. A feeder lifting pin 302 projectsinwardly from the bottom of the channel member 261 for engagement withthe arched under face of the arm 295, by means of which the feeder inits retractive movement is disengaged from the tape intermediate thesame and the plate 259. The end of the slide-bar opposite the feeder isformed with a lug 303 for engagement by each of a series of radialtappet-arms 304 projecting from a collar 305 fixed upon the forward endof the tape-feed shaft and provided with a knurled head 306 by means ofwhich said shaft may Ibe manually turned. The intermittent rotation ofthe shaft effects the engagement of the arms 304 successively with thelug 303 to move the feeding element 295 for advance of the tape throughits guidechannel. Y

The delivery end of the tape-channel is normally maintained elevatedabove the lower work-clamping member and beneath one side of theclamp-check by means of a spring 307 connected at one end to an eye 308upon the iange 257 and at the other end to an'eye 309 extending from theend of the tape cutter rock-shaft 310 journaled in the lower portion ofthe bracket-arm head 4. The tape-channel is adapted to be depressed inopposition to said spring by the closing of the work-clamp, or inadvance thereof by engagement wth the flan e 257 of the forwardlyextending arm o a rock-lever 311 ffulcrumed by means of the stud-screw312 upon an upwardly projecting lug 313 of the bracket-plate 276. Therearward arm of the lever 311 extends within the range of movement ofand is adapted for en agement with the cam 246 upon the sha 185 by meansof which it is tilted once for each rotation of said cam-shaft todepress the mouth of the tape-channel in advance of the closing of thework-clamp.

The sha't 255 is `confined against endwise movement within its bearing254 moving with the work-clamp betweenaspacing ring 314 interposedbetween the sleeve 256 and said bearing and a collar 315 secured thereonby means of a set-screw 316. The rearward portion of this shaft isreduced in diameter and provided with the feather 317 and has slidinglyfitted thereon the bushing 318 formed with the key-way 319 embracingsaid feather and with the annular flan 320.

Upon the bushing 318 is loosely mounted the collar 321 formed in one endwith peripheral notches 322 to afford ratchet-teeth, adjacent which ithas a boss 323 of smaller diameter with its extremity abutted againstthe bushing flange 320. The collar 321 is secured upon the bushing 318by means of a fasteningV screw 324 passing through an aperture 325 insaid collar and entering the threaded aperture 326 in said bushing. Thecollar 321 is further provided with the angular groove 327 for receptionof a holding fork 328 formed upon the plate 329 which is secured byscrews 330 upon the foot of the bearing standard 183 by means of whichthe collar 321 and the attached bushin 318 are maintained against travelwith t e shaft 255 and its supporting work-clamp.

Mounted loosely upon the boss 323 intermediate the body of the collar321 and the flange 320 of the bushing 318 is a pawl-carrying plate 331carryin the screw-pin 332 upon which is mounted t e pawl 333 pressedyieldingly in engagement with the adjacent portion of the periphery ofthe sleeve 321 for engagement of its ratchet-teeth by means of thespring 334 (Figs. l, 6 and 19 to 22 inclusive.) The late 331 carries thescrew-stud 335 embraolng the lower apertured end of a link 336 whoseapertured u per end embraces a ball-stud 337 upon t e lateral arm 338 ofa rock-lever fulcrurned upon the stud-screw 339 tapped into the bearinstandard 183 and provided with an upwar ly extending arm 340 carrying aroller-stud 341 entering the cam-groove 244 of the cam-disk 242.

The tape-feed shaft 255 receives through the described connectionsstep-by-step rotary movements which are transmitted by the tappet-arms304 to the tape-feeder 295. .As represented more particularly in Figs. 1and 23, the sleeve 254 1s formed with a notch in its upper side toexpose the top of the shaft 255 upon which is placed a rictionpad 342,of soft material such as raw hide, which is pressed thereon by means ofa strap 343 terminating in lateral ears which are drawn together bymeans of the clampscrew 344 (F1 1 and 23), so as to impose a yielding anregulated ressure upon the pad 342 to produce suiiicient friction uponthe shaft to prevent overthrow under the action of its actuating ratchetmechanism.

The cam-groove 243 of the disk 242 is entered by a roller-stud 345carried by the upwardly extending arm 346 of van elbow-lever mountedupon the fulcrum-stud 347 sustained by the bearing standard 183 andhaving a lateral arm 348 carrying the rollerstud 349 adapted forengaglement with the clamp-arm extension 71. he rocking of thiselbow-lever by the action of the cam element 243 obviously causes thetilting of the clamp-arm an the opening and closin of the work-holderfor introduction, shifting and removal of the work.

The arm 348 of the elbow-lever is provided with a stud 350 in which istapped the shank of the ball-stud 351 embraced by the apertured lowerend of the twisted link 352 pivotally connected at its up r end by meansof the screw-pin 353 withe the arm 182 projecting from the hub 181mounted upon the rock-shaft 156. Through the oonnections thus described,the elbow-lever 346 348 is caused to impart o erative movements to thebent lever 180 rom which are derived the operative movements of thelower-thread pull-of and cutting elements 171 and 167, res ectively.

The rock-sha t 310 has iixed upon one end the depending arm 354 uponwhich is rigidly secured by means of screws 355 the lower blade 356 ofthe tape-cutter whose upper blade 357 is pivotally mounted upon saidlever by means of the screw-pin 358 intermediate the hub of which andthe blade is interposed the at spring 359 by means of which the pivotedblade is ressed into shearing relation with the ri ,i blade. Theknife-blade 357 is constructs with an angularly extending arm 360 formedwith the segmental cam-slot 361 concentric with the rock-shaft 310 whenthe cutter is open, as represented in Figs. 16 and 17.

Upon the end of the rock-shaft 310 opposite the arm 354 is fixed the hubof a crank-arm 362 pivotally connected with one end of a link 363 whoseopposite end is iv- Dtally attached to a swinging arm 364 W ich isfulcrumed upon the cross-pin 154 and carries a roller-stud 365 enterinthe camgroove 241 of the cam-disk 239. he swinging movements imparted bythe cam element 241 to the arm 364 obviously communicate to thetape-cutting elements through the described connections bodily movementsin a direction inclined to the operative faces of the work-clampingelements and toward and from the needle-path in a direction crosswise ofthe tape-guiding channel.

The lower center-screw 89 for the needleframe 7 has rigidly connectedtherewith the Hat bearing plate 366 arranged parallel with the path ofmovement of the swinging arm 354 and provided in one face near the upperedge with a slidewa 366 which 1s closed laterally by a cover-plate 367.Within the slideway of the bearlng plate -is fitted the slide-bar 368carryin upon one face the roller-stud 369 passin t rough a clearanceslot 370 therefor in t e bearing plate and entering the cam-slot 361 ofthe knife-arm 360. The slide-bar 368 is connected b means of the link371 with a stud 372 upon the lower end of a swinging arm 373 which isfulcrumed upon the cross-rod 154 and carries a roller-stud 374 enteringthe cam-grove 240 of the cam-disk 239. The swinging movement of the arm373 transmits through its described connections with the roller- Stud369 and arm 360 o erating movements to the u per knife-blad; for openingand closing t e cutter when swung into operative position by theoperative movements of the supporting arm 354.

The cutter remains open while in retracted position, as represented inFigs. 3 and 16, and also while advancin tive osition within the longituinal recess 67 of) theclamp-check where it is closed upon the tape andagain opened before retiring to initial position. In order to preventthe catching of the points of the shearblades upon a bod fabric to whichthe 1abel-tape is applic the bearing plate 366 has secured thereto bymeans of fastening screws 375 and 376 a depending bent wire shield 377shaped at the forward end to avoid the clamp-check in its o ening andclosing movements and rearward thereof to conform substantially with thecurved path of movement of the lower shear-blade.

Upon the rear face of the bracket-arm head 4 is the usual stud 378 towhich are applied the separable tension-disks 379 pressed together bymeans of the spring 380 interposed between the outer disk and the nut381 applied to the threaded outer portion of the stud 378. Thedown-turned outer extremity of the rock-lever 153 is wedgeshaped, and inthe rocking of the lever in opposition to its spring 153 under theaction of the stop-motion device the tensiondisks are automaticallyseparated in a wellknown manner as represented in Fig. 2, to relieve thetension upon the needle-thread.

The machine is represented in Figs. 1 to 6 of the drawings with itsoperative parts in the ositions which they assume at the completion of astitching operation, the driving belt embracing and imparting rotarymovement to the loose pulley-wheel 12 from which the actuating pawl 192derives its normal reciprocatory movements, the work-clamp being open toreceive the Work, the feed-claw occupying its advance posi.- tionwherein the cut end of label-tape t is extended within the range oflateral jogging movement of the needle, and the tape-cutter isretracted. In this initial position of the parts, the cam-shaft 185 isat rest, the point of the actuatin pawl 192 moving idly upon one of thedea -points 186 intermechate the interrupted series of teeth 186 of theratchet-wheel 186.

The garment or other body fabric m being inter osed between the upperand lower mem ers of the work-clamp beneath themouth of the tape-guide,the pin 221 is manually drawn down in opposition to the spring 225,thereby advancing the ratchetwheel by the action of the auxiliary pawl222 and causing it tobe picked up by the actuating pawl 192 forcontinuous step-byto` opera-- step movement until the encounter by saidpawl of a succeeding dead-Roint 186", The partial rotation of thecam-shaft thus effected causes the lowering of the clampcheck upon thework, depressing with 1t the delivery end of the tape-guide channel, bymeans of the described connections with the cam-groove 243. i

Immediately after the clampm of the work, the engagement of one of t crollerstuds 209 upon the ratchet-wheel with the forward arm of therock-lever 211 213 causes the shifting of the stop-lever 110 to throwthe driving belt from the loose to the fast pulley and the disengagementof the plunger-bar 114 from the cam 115, thereby 1mtiating thestitch-forming and feeding operations, the actuating pawl 192 thuscoming to rest while engagin one of the dead points 186". The arrest othe ratchet-wheel 186 occurs 'ust as the stud 209 reaches the outerextremlty of the rock-lever arm 211.

In the advance of the work-holder under the action of the feedcam 42 aline of zigzag stitches .s is formed through the body fabric and overthe initial end of the label-tape, as indicated at the left in Fig. 25,at the end of which and rior to the retrograde feeding movement, t eshift-cam 102 causes the lateral throw of the link-bar 85 toward thestop-pin 106 Whose engagement with the 1nclined edge 105 of the notch105 causes the link-bar to move slightly forward of its extreme innerjogging posltion, whereby in the succeeding retrograde feeding movementa line of straightaway stitches s is laid insideV of the edge-coveringzigzag-stitch seam, the two lines being connected by an intermediatecross-stitch resulting from the final auxiliary shift of the needle-barto straightaway stitching position, as represented at the left in Fig.25.

In the rotation of the cam-wheel 102 with the feed-wheel, one of thecam-projections 232 thrusts downwardly the arm 229 and 4thereby actsthrough the auxiliary pawl 222 to advance the feed-wheel sufficientlynot only to expose to the action of the pawl 192 a new series ofratchet-teeth, but to carry the roller-stud 209 beyond the extremity ofthe rock-lever arm 211 so as to free the stopmotion for the subsequenttripping action at the completion of the stitch-forming cycle.

At the end of the straightaway stitching operation, one of the trippingpoints 126 upon the feed-wheel 42 tilts the latch-lever 121 123 and thuseffects the release of the pull-rod 120 which causes the movement of thestop-lever 110 under the action of the spring 117 for arrest of themain-shaft 10, the driving belt being returned to the loose pulley whichresumes its rotation. The rise of the plunger-bar 114 within theperipheral notch of the stopping cam 115 acts throu h the describedconnections to lift the cran arm 155 for tilting the rock-lever 153 toopen the tension device and simultaneously lift the connected latch 138for disengagement from the rod 134 and consequent actuation of thenipping and cutting blade 127 by the Spring 136 1n nipping and severingthe needle-thread.

The further partial rotation of the camshaft under the action of thepawl 192 upon the ratchet-wheel 186 causes the lifting of theclamp-check 67 and simultaneous actuation of the lower-thread pulloffand cutter by reason of their respective connections with the camelement 243, the tape-feeder 295 being at this time retracted anddisengaged from the tape by contact of the inclined under Aface of theelement 295 with the lifting pin 302. The cam-shaft thereupon comes torest by reason of the encounter of a dead point 186 by the actuatingpawl 192.

The work-clamp now being open and the tape t being freely movable, thework is shifted by the operator transversely of the direction of feedand away from the mouth of the channel to a point wherein the usualdivision line between the adjacent sections of tape is within the planeof action of the tape-cutter, whereupon the pin 221 is again depressedfor the second stage of the labelfastening operation. vWhile thetape-reel is represented in the drawings as sustained by the travelingwork-holder so as to permanently maintain its operative relation withthe tape-guide, it will be readily understood that such reel may besupported by a pin extending from the bracket-arm head, as 1s common tomachines for stitching tapes to fabrics. The tape-cuttting shears nowmove forwardly and downwardly for engagement of the lower cutter-blade356 with the lower face of the tape extending from the mouth of thetape-guide-beneath the clamp-check. In the advance of the downwardlyinclined blade into cuttlng position, the tape is lifted slightly abovethe lower face of the clamp-check, in case the latter in its elevatedposition is below the cuttingr edge of said blade when in operativeposition. The unsevered tape, which has been previously fastened to thework at its initial end, is now severed by the closing of the uppercutting blade upon the lower blade.

While the cutter-blades remain closed, or at least before theirretraction from cutting position, the lever 311 is tilted by engagementtherewith of the nose 247 of the cam 246 so as to depress the mouth ofthe channel` thereby moving the cut extremity of the body-tapedownwardly around the tape-feed shaft 255 as a fulcrum in an areinclined to the direction of the needle-thrusts, which effects a slightretraction of such extremity clear of the needle-path. The clamp-check iis immediately lowered and seated upon the severed tape-section, withthe adjacent end of the body-tape thus slightlyV retracted therefrom,but sufficiently to remain out of the range of action of thestitch-forming mechanism in the succeeding stitching operation. Thecutter-blades having been opened and retracted to initial position, thestopmotion is a second time actuated by the second of the roller-studs211 to Set the stitchforming and feeding mechanisms in action for the1final stitching period.

The operation of the stitch-forming and feeding mechanims now causes theproduction of a line of zigzag fastening stitches s embracing the Secondend of the tape-section or label t; but by the shifting of the linkbar85 into engagement with the stop-pin 108, and its slight endwiseretractive movement by engagement of such pin with the inclined edge 107with the notch 107, the needle is thrown inwardly beyond the zigzagstitches, whereby a connected transverse line of straightaway stitches sis formed slightly spaced from the stitches s, as represented at theright in Fig. 25. The severed tape-section or label, as thus secured tothe body-fabric, is shown and described more fully in the Patent No.1,115,649, of November 3, 1914, to Edward B. Allen.

At the completion of this second stitching operation, the stop-motion istripped to arrest the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, theneedlethread being simultaneously cut and the tension released asbefore. The ratchet-wheel 186 is again picked up by the actuating pawl192 and the rotation of the cam-shaft resumed, the clampeheck beingthereafter lifted and the lower thread cut through the operation of thecamV element 243, after which the tape-feeder 295 1s actuated throughits connection with -the cam-groove 244 to advance the cut end of thebody-tape across the range of movement of the stitch-forming mechanism,the cam-shaft thereafter coming to rest by reason of the encounter of aiinal dead-point 186 of the ratchet-wheel 186 by the still reciprocatingpawl 192, thus completing a full rotation of the controlling cam-shaft.

`It is to be understood that in the complemental partial rotations ofthe feed-wheel shaft 33 within a complete cycle of operation of themachine the cam-disk 102 exposes to the nose 97 of the rock-lever 97 oneor the other of the intermediate concentric segments 102 at thecompletion of` each stitching operation, thereby causing the link-bar 86to assume its normal intermediate position wherein the actuatingstud-pin 82 is embraced betweenthe transverse walls of the slot 83. Inthis return movement from either extreme position, the link-bar is'shifted from straightaway stitching position by the camming action ofthe rounded pin 82 upon the adjacent angle in the wall of the slot 83.

Beneath the clamp-arm extension 71 is disposed a bearing bracket 382Sustained by the bed-plate and provided lwith the fulcrum screw-stud 383upon which is mounted the stop-arm 384 havin-g connected to a laterallug 385 thereof one end of a link 386 whose opposite end is attached b-ymeans of a screwpin 387 to a lateral stud upon the stop-lever 110. Asrepresented in Fig. 1, the lever 110 is in stopping position wherein theplungerbar 114 is 1n engagement with the cam 115 and the stop-arm 384 isin its forwardly inclined position wherein it is out of operativerelation with the clamp-arm extension 71; but while the stop-lever 110is in running position to maintain the plunger-bar 114 out of the rangeof action of the cam 115, the stoparm 384 automatically assumes, throughits connection with the stop-lever, the position represented in dottedlines in said figure, wherein it effectively prevents the accidentallifting of the clamp-check while the stitching is in rogress.

Hereto ore, all attempts to handle a label tape by machine have beenseemingly prohibitively defective in the absence of provision forforming label sections not only of different normal lengths butinvolvingr variations in length of consecutive label sections wovenin`or printed upon a continuous body tape, these variations being due,among other things, to atmospheric conditions involving the stretchingor shrinking of the tape `in the process of manufacture. According tothe present improvement in one of its chief characteristics, thepresenting of the label to the stitch-forming mechanism andthe actualstitching operation are performed automatically, excepting in thedetermination of the length of each particular label section severedfrom the body tape, which is effected by the manual shifting of thegarment or body fabric having one end of the advance label sectionstitched thereto, thereby insuring that the division line between suchsection and the one succeeding it may be brought exactly into stitchingposition, regardless of variations in the lengths of theindividualsections due to defects in the manufacture of the label tape.

It is of course unessential, in the broader aspect of the presentinvention, that the cutting of the tape be effected actually within therange of action of the stitch-forming mechanism, for the reason that. incase the severing should be performed otherwise and before the manualShift of the work, the second end of the tape could be as readilypositioned manuallv to receive the second group of fastening stitches.

While it is preferable, to insure speed in the handling of the work, toemploy a eammember operative While the stitch-forming and feedingmechanisms are inactive, in order to automatically open and close thework-clamp, operate the tape-cutter and retract the cut end of bodytape, the present invention includes withln its scope means foreffecting manually these operations intermediate stitching periods.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what we claim hereinis 1. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, feeding mechanism including a traveling workholder, andcontrolling means whereby said stitch-forming and feedin mechanisms aremaintained in operation or predetermined periods for production ofindependent groups of stitches, of a tape-guide disposed adjacent anddirected toward said workholder, a cam member, actuating means forimparting thereto operative movements including excursions from aninitial position each embracing a plurality of stitching periodsincluding interrupted groups of stitch-forming cycles, an o erativeconnection between said cam memI er and the controlling means forsetting the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms in operation, and an oerative connection between said cam meml er and the work-holder foropening said holder intermediate said stitching periods to permit themanual shift of the work with an attached tape preparatory to thesucceeding stitching leriod.

2. In a sewing mac ine, the combination with stitchforming mechanism,feeding mechanism including a traveling .workholder, and controllingmeans whereby said stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms are maintainedin operation for predetermined periods for the production of independentgroups of stitches, of a tape-guide disposed adjacent and directedtoward said workholder, a tape-cutting device, a cam member, actuatingmeans for imparting thereto operative movements including excursionsfrom an initial sition each embracing a plurality of stitc ing periodsincluding interrupted groups of stitch-forming cycles, an operativeconnection between said cam member and the controlling means for settingthe stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms in operation, means includingan operative connection between said cam member and the work-holder foropening and closing said holder intermediate said stitching periods topermit the `manual shift of the work with an attached tape after aninitial stitching period, and actuating means for imparting tosaidcutting device operative movements to cut the tape intermediate the oening and closing movements of the workolder.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitchforming mechanism,feeding mechanism including a traveling workholder, and controllingmeans whereby said stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms are maintainedin operation for predetermined periods for the production of independentgroups of stitches, of a tape-guide disposed adjacent and directedtoward said workholder, a tape-cutting device, a cam member` actuatlngmeans for imparting thereto operative movements including excursionsfrom an initial position each embracing a plurality of stitching periodsincluding interrupted groups of stitch-forming cycles, an operativeconnection between said cammember and the controlling means for settingthe stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms in operation, and operativeconnections between said cam member and the tape-cutting device and thework-holder, respectively, for opening said holder intermediate saidstitc ing periods to permit the manual shift of the work with anattached tape after an initial stitching period, for actuating thetape-cutting device to sever the tape, and to thereafter close saidholder preparatory to the succeeding stitching perio 4. In a sewingmachine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism,-a tape-guide directedtoward the range of action of the same, feeding mechanism including aworkholder with means for imparting thereto consecutive rectilinearfeeding movements' in the same direction and transversely of thetape-guide, controlling means whereby said stitch-forming and feedingmachanisms are maintained in operation for predetermined periods for'production of interrupted groups of stitches, a cam member, actuatingmeans for imparting thereto operative movements, a connection betweensaid cam member and the controlling means for setting the stitch-formingand feeding mechanisms in operation successively during each excursionof said cam from an initial position, and means for opening saidworkholder intermediate the periods of action of the stitch-forming andfeeding mechanisms to permit the shifting of the work after an initialstitching period and thereafter closing the same for the succeedingstitching period.

5. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, atape-guide directed toward the range of action of the same, atape-cutting device adapted for operation adjacent the stitch-formingmechanism, feeding mechanism including a workholder with means forimparting thereto consecutive rectilinear feeding movements in the samedirection and transversely/0f the tape-guide, controlling means wherebysaid stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms are maintained in operationfor predetermined periods for production of interrupted groups ofstitches, a cam member, actuating means for imparting thereto operativemovements, a connection between said cam member and the controllingmeans for setting the stitchforming and feeding mechanisms in operationsuccessively during each excursion of said cam from an initial position,means for opening said work-holder intermediate the periods of action ofthe stitch-formin Y, and feeding mechanisms to permit tlie shifting ofthe work after an initial stitching period and thereafter closing thesame for the succeeding stitching period, and means for actuating thetape-cutting device between the opening and closing of the work-holder.

6. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, atape-guide directed toward the range of action of the same, atape-cutting device comprising co-- acting elements bodily movablecrosswise of the tape-guide into and out of but normally retracted fromthe range of action of the Stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechanismincluding a work-holder with means for imparting thereto consecutivereciprocal rectilinear feeding movements in the same direction andtransversely of the tape-guide, controlling means whereby' saidstitch-forming and feeding mechanisms are maintained in operation forpredetermined periods for production of interrupted groups of stitches,a cam member, actuating means. for imparting thereto operativemovements, a connection between said cam member and the controllingmeans for setting the stitch-forming a d feeding mechanisms in operationsuccessi [ely during each excursion of said cam from an initialposition, means for opening sa'id work-holder intermediate the periodsof action of the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms to permit theshifting `of the work after an initial stitching period and thereafterclosing the same for the succeeding stitching period, and meansoperative intermediate the opening and closing of the work-holder foradvancing the cutting device into the rangerof action of thestitchforming mechanism, then operating it to sever the tape and nallymoving it to retracted position.

7. In combination, a sewing machine frame, a shaft journaled therein,driving means applied to said shaft, stitch-forming mechanism, means forperiodically connecting it with said driving means with intermediateperiods of disconnection, a camelement, actuating means4 by which saidcam-element is connected with the driving means independently of andalternately with the connection of the stitch-forming mechanismtherewith, a tape-guide directed toward the range of action of thestitchforming mechanism, a Work-holder, a tapecutting device adjacentthereto, and independent connections between the cam-element and thework-holder and tape-cutting device, respectively, whei'eb said holderis opened, the cutter is actuate and the holder is reclosed intermediateconsecutive stitchv ing periods.

8. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, atraveling workliolder having a recess formed transversely of itsdirection of travel, a tape-guide directed toward said work-holder, atape-cutting device comprising coacting elements bodily movable into andout of said recess of the work-holder and transversely to its directionof travel, and actuatin means for said cutting device whereby it iscaused to move from initial retracted position into the recess of thework-holder, to perform its tape-severing operation and to return toretracted position during an interval of rest of the work-holder.

9. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, atraveling workholder having a recess formed transversely of itsdirection of travel, means for imparting interrupted traveling movementsto the work-holder, a tape-guide directed toward said work-holder, atape-cuttin device comprising coacting elements boily movable into andout of said recess of the workholder and transversely to its directionof travel, and actuating means for said cutting device whereby it iscaused to move from initial retracted position into the recess of thework-holder, to perfo-rm its tape-severing operation and to return toretracted position during an interval of rest of the workholder.

10. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, atraveling workholder having a recess formed transversely of itsdirection of travel, means for impaiting interrupted traveling movementsto the work-holder, means for opening and closing the work-holderduring-the interruption of its travel, a tapeguide directed toward saidwork-holder, a tape-cuttin device comprising coacting elements df wichone is bodily movable into and out of said recess of the work-holder andtransversely to its direction of travel, and actuating means for saidcutting device whereby it is caused to move from initial retractedposition into the recess of the work-holder, to perform its tapeseveringoperation and to return to retracted position during an interval of restof the work-holder and while the latter remains open.

11. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, atraveling Workholder, means for imparting thereto interrupted travelingmovements, means for opening and closing the work-holder during theinterruption of its travel, a tape-guide directed toward saidwork-holder, a tape-

